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Long read: the icefield above the city
Behind the mountains that frame downtown lies one of the largest icefields in North America. We spent a week learning how it works.
From downtown Juneau you cannot see it, but it is always there: a plateau of ice and snow stretching back from the mountains behind the city, feeding the glaciers that reach down toward the valleys and the sea. On a clear day from a plane, it looks like a frozen ocean with mountaintops for islands, and it goes on much farther than most people who live beneath it ever realize.